To celebrate National Hat Day, we’ve taken a look at our Hat Collection here at the Museum of the Mercian Regiment. We hold over a 100 different hats in the collection, which were all worn by Sherwood Foresters from the early 18th Century until present day.
Hats and headwear have always been an invaluable piece of uniform for the British Army. As well as providing practical protection during warfare, hats have been used to denote rank, mark unit specialisation, and commemorate ceremonial events.
Over the years, hats have taken various shapes and sizes with designs reflecting the changes taking place in warfare, fashion, and attitudes towards national identity. After the Zulu War (1879) and Boer War (1889-1902), decorative field uniforms were abandoned in favour of khaki uniforms and hats consequently became increasingly less decorative. From 1902, khaki uniforms were introduced in the British Army and elaborate hat designs were saved for full dress uniform.
Before this however, hats were highly elaborate and decorative elements were known to compromise practicality and comfort. Hats were adorned with coloured tufts, fur crests, tassels, cords, feathers, metal chains and silk ribbons and were beautifully embroidered with coloured silks and silver or gold Regimental lace.
Let’s take a look at how hats have evolved over the years . . .
Cocked Hats
During the 18th Century, Cocked Hats were worn by civilians, military officers, and notable figures of the period. Cocked Hats were made by folding up the brim of a flat hat, which was then secured with pins or lace to create a triangular shape.
In the early 1740s, the Tricorn hat was a popular type of cocked hat, which gained is name due to its distinctive three-cornered shape. It was often made of felt and had white edging and silver edging for officers. Tricorns were decorated with cockades, plumes and ribbons and could be adjusted to project the wearer from sun or rain.
Later, the Tricorn hat evolved into the Bicorn hat, which had two corners, rather than three. The Bicorn was famously adopted by Napoleon Bonaparte and the design consequently became an icon of the 18th and early 19th centuries. The Bicorn was widely seen in naval and diplomatic dress and is still used today for ceremonial uniforms.
The Shako
Whilst officers were wearing cocked hats during the 19th century, non-officers were wearing a type of hat called a Shako. Between 1808-1812, the Stove Pipe Shako was the issued headdress.
The Stove Pipe Shako had a leather flap at the rear that could be dropped down to protect the wearer from the sun and to stop rain running into their collar. Although the Stove Pipe was replaced by the Waterloo Shako in 1812, they were worn until much later as the supply of new headdresses was not a priority along the supply lines during the Peninsular War.
Over the next 60 years, the Shako was adapted and altered and 7 other types of Shako were worn by soldiers over the years.
In 1812, a new Shako design was introduced, which later gained the name of the Waterloo Shako after the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. Unlike the Stove Pipe Shako, which was tall and cylindrical, the Waterloo Shako was shorter with a prominent front panel. It’s believed that this raised panel made officers less distinguishable from other ranks and consequently made them less vulnerable to targeted attacks. The Waterloo often had a leather peak and was completed with a plume on the left side.
In 1826, the Regency Shako replaced the Waterloo and by 1831, the Bell Top Shako was issued. The Bell Top had a distinctive tall style with a flared shape at the top, which mimicked the shape of a bell. They were typically made of black beaver fur or felt with a black patent leather top. They were often adorned with plumes, ornate chin chains, and metal plates.
Between 1844-1855, the Albert Shako was worn and offered a more practical design. Unlike the Bell Top, which was tall and wide, the Albert was shorter with a full brim at the front and back for sun protection. During the Crimean War (1854-65), the 95th Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire Regiment of Foot continued to wear the Albert Shako as very few soldiers would have had access to the new French Shako design. Other than a few reinforcements, the majority of soldiers would have only had the new French Shako after their return to England in 1856. Because of this, the majority of prints and watercolours, which depict the Crimean War show the Albert Shako despite the introduction of the French Shako in 1855.
As the name suggests, the French Shako incorporated elements from French design. Despite being adapted to be shorter and lighter, the French Shako remained heavy and uncomfortable and was quickly replaced by the Quilted Shako in 1861. This new design was made from cloth-covered cork, which was stitched in a diamond pattern. As well as making the Shako even lighter, the Quilted design offered the wearer greater protection against wet weather.
In 1869, the final version of the Shako was introduced which was aptly named ‘The Last Shako’. This design was even lower than its predecessor and was tilted forward. In 1878, the Shako design was discontinued for field use and this was consequently named ‘The Last Shako’.
Despite various attempts to improve the Shako, soldiers still found them to be cumbersome and impractical for active service in the field. Instead, soldiers often wore various types of undress caps including the Glengarry and the Forage Cap and kept the Shako for full dress.
Tropical, Jungle, and Dessert Conditions
With the help of hats, soldiers have been able to withstand harsh environmental conditions and do their duty in challenging tropical and desert environments. During the Boer War (1899-1902), Slouch hats became standard issue and helped troops cope with the weather. These wide brimmed hats offered protection against sun and rain and included a type of band called a puggaree. The puggaree band could be soaked in water before being attached to the hat to keep the wearer cool. Designs also typically included a type of fastening so that the side of the hat could be pinned up whilst operating rifles.
Similarly, the Bush or jungle hat was introduced to combat hot and tropical weather. Unlike the Slouch Hat, which was typically made of felt, the Bush Hat was made of canvas or cotton material which made it lighter weight, more breathable, and easier to pack. Bush hats are still a vital piece of kit for people serving in the British Army today.
Tropical Sun Helmets or Pith Helmets were also worn in hot and tropical climates. They were worn by the 2nd Battalion whilst on active service in Egypt in 1882 and later in India. They were also invaluable to the 1st Battalion during the Boer War (1899-1901). In November 1899, the 1st Battalion sailed for South Africa where they remained until the end of the War in 1902. They took part in most of the major battles and shared all the hard marching and privations of that long campaign. On one occasion they marched 400 miles in 45 days and were engaged with the enemy 28 times. The hard shell was usually made from plant pith or cork, which was then covered in canvas or other breathable fabric. The stiff shell was then lined with a lightweight fabric to create an air gap which allowed for air circulation. A puggaree band was also fixed around the shell to cool down its wearer.
The Evolution of the Combat Helmet
At the outbreak of the Great War (1914-1918), troops soon found that leather and felt hats were unsuitable for modern warfare conditions. In 1915, the steel helmet was first adopted by the British Army after its invention by John L Brodie. The simple design of the Mark I or Brodie helmet offered the soldier protection and was also relatively easy and cheap to produce. In March 1916, around 140,000 helmets were distributed to soldiers serving on the Western Front.
Steel Helmets continued to be used during the Second World War (1939-1945) but underwent modifications to adapt to changes in warfare. Unlike steel helmets of the First World War, which were designed with trench warfare in mind, later helmets were adapted to suit mobile combat conditions and advanced weaponry. The wide brim design of the WW1 helmet, which protected soldiers from overhead shrapnel in the trenches, was substituted for a deeper design which offered improved side and neck protection.
From 1936, helmets were fitted with an improved liner and elasticated chin strap and this version was used until 1940, when the Mark II design was implemented. In 1941, the Medical Research Council developed a new and improved design for the British Army called the Mark III design, also known as the Turtle Helmet due to its shape. This new design was worn for the first time by British soldiers at D-Day on the 6th June 1944 and gradually phased out the Mark II design.
The design remained relatively unchanged over the years until 1959, when a padded liner was introduced. In 1985, the Mark 6 helmet was issued which was made from Nylon Fibre rather than steel, which dramatically reduced the weight of the helmet to 1.5 Kg.
Shortly after the amalgamation of The Worcestershire Regiment amalgamated with The Sherwood Foresters on the 28th February 1970, the newly formed The Worcestershire and Sherwood Foresters Regiment (WFR) were deployed to Northern Ireland wearing the Mark 6 helmet. In 1972, the battalion was deployed to Derry to provide military support for the police and completed another 7 tours of the next 30 years. The Mark 6 helmet was also used by the WFR during Peacekeeping missions in Bosnia (1996 and 1998) and Cyprus (1991-1993).
In 2009, the Mark 7 was issued, which offered superior ballistic protection to its predecessor. Changes in shape allowed for accuracy when firing rifles and it was 500g lighter than the Mark 6. In 2015, the Virtus Helmet was issued, which was 350g lighter than the Mark 7. The design was adapted to accommodate night vision goggles and included a counterweight for neck comfort. Camouflage covers could be added to the outer shell and the shape further improved protection to the side of the head. The Virtus Helmet is still used by the Mercian Regiment today and has been worn by Mercian soldiers in Iraq, Afghanistan, Cyprus, and Africa.
Want to learn more about Hats and the British army?
Follow these links:
https://www.army.mod.uk/learn-and-explore/equipment/personal-equipment/combat-body-armour/
https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/30100433
https://www.nam.ac.uk/subjects/uniform-and-kit
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References:
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), An Officers cocked hat circa 1800. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-2636.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), British Bush Hat as worn in India circa 1939-45 complete with other ranks badge. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-2279.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), British steel helmet circa 1946-60. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-2263.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Foreign Service White helmet circa 1900. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-1749.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Iraq Army helmet with cam net and scrim. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 2004-6374-43.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Last Shako badged Royal Sherwood Foresters circa 1869-1878. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-1715.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Officers Bell-top Shako badged 95th regt. fitted with green ball tuft and chin chain. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-1776.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Officers Bi-corn hat of the Derbyshire Rifle Volunteers with white feather plume. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-1728.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Officers French Shako circa 1855-1861 badged Notts Rifle Volunteers and fitted with green/black feather plume. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-1737.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Officers French Shako fitted with 95th Regt. plate and white over red ball tuft. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-1800.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Officers last Shako circa 1868-1879 fitted with 45th plate, chin chain and white over red ball tuft. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-1803.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Officers Last Shako circa 1869-1878 Pattern badged High Peak Rifles, with blue ball tuft. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-1730.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Officers quilted Shako fitted with 45th Regt. Plate and white over red ball tuft. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-1802.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Other ranks Stove Pipe Shako circa 1808 to 1812 to the 45th 1st Nottinghamshire Regiment. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 2004-6462.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Other Ranks Glengarry Cap. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-2500.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Other Ranks Tropical Sun Helmet complete with Lincoln Green Puggaree. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-2511.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Other ranks Waterloo Shako circa 1812 complete with shako plate and hackle and decorative cords (Replica). Nottingham: Catalogue number: 2004-6463.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Portrait of Lt Col W. Newton. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 2000-3609-105.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Portrait of Lt J.H.F. Marsden in uniform with Bush hat ready for South Africa. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 2000-3610-419.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Steel Helmet. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-2300.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), Tropical olive green bush hat circa 1958-60. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 1998-2284.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), View of Capt Hubert in musketry order wearing a greatcoat and tin hat. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 2000-3599-40.
Museum of the Mercian Regiment (WFR Collection), View of men out in the field at training with the cyclist section at the 1900 camp all wearing slouch hats, taken from a photograph album of 8th Bn 1861-1918 and 1940 and 1947-61. Nottingham: Catalogue number: 2000-3623-54.